Scratching Around for Ice
February 1st, 2010 • Winter climbing
On the Road at 6am it was a familar pilgrimage up Scotland’s Great Western Road on Saturday morning. Into Glencoe’s Stob Coire nan Lochain, Mini and Kia managed to get the rope properly fankled on boomerang gully, while Spad took a slightly uncommon route up to Dorsal Arete. Having previously avoided it for more difficult routes, the Arete proved to be nothing but good fun and I wondered why I hadn’t done it before. Back down in the Fort it was pints and pub scran before lamb chops arrived. A good sleep in till 7am, but rescued by the gondola it was off the back of Anonach Mor on Sunday. We all lacked ice screws and on a variation of Tunnel vision, Mini and myself ran out of rope, with me 25m above the last shakey protection, and 2m from the top. Plenty of excitement as it felt like I soloing over hard ground (for me). Soft snow didn’t make life easy higher up, but luckily some other friendly climbers, up from Glasgow, dropped us a line. We did the same for lamb chops,Skippy and Spad, who had had a similarly taxing climb. Having run out of time for the Gondola, all that was left was twilight descent into the Glen, some gear sorting, and a pint on road down before making glasgow at midnight.



















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